6 Tips for Growing Clematis – the Queen of Climbers
Clematis can play an important role in any flower garden. As they scramble up trellises, climb over arbors and thread themselves through other plants, these perennial vines weave a living tapestry of color and texture. Read on for six tips that will help you be successful growing clematis, a plant that deserves its title “the queen of climbers.”
Know the Options Before You Buy
There are hundreds of clematis varieties to choose from, and they vary in height, bloom time, flower form and color. You’ll find compact cultivars that grow just 3-feet tall, and others that can reach heights of 20-feet or more. Flowering times can be late spring, summer or fall. There are even re-blooming clematis that flower twice per season, in summer and again in early fall.
Flower styles also vary. While most clematis have large, star-like flowers with 6 or more petals, there are also frilly doubles, delicate miniatures and even varieties with lovely bell-shaped blossoms. And then there’s color! Flower colors for clematis include white, pink, red, burgundy, lavender, purple and even yellow.
Once you see all the options, you will probably find it difficult to settle on just one clematis. So don’t! Consider planting two different varieties side by side. Combining an early-blooming and late-blooming clematis will keep you in flowers for months.
Clematis Carnaby
Be Aware of How Clematis Climb
Vines climb in several different ways. Some have twining stems (like beans and morning glories) or tendrils (like wisteria and sweet peas). Others have adhesive pads (ivy) or clinging stem roots (climbing hydrangeas). Clematis climb by using the stems of their leaves, which they are able to coil like a tendril.
It’s important to understand how clematis climb, because their twining leaf stems are relatively short. When choosing a trellis, keep in mind that the stems can’t wrap around anything that’s more than 1/2″ thick. Thinner is better, and a wire grid is usually the best option. Consider using woven or welded wire animal fencing that has a 1″ or larger grid. If you prefer the look of a traditional trellis made from wood slats or steel bands, attach a wire grid over the surface to support the vines.
Clematis montana grandiflora
Choose a Good Planting Location
Clematis are long-lived plants and do not like to be moved. Consider the planting site carefully with the goal of giving your new clematis a permanent home. The ideal location should have fertile, well drained soil with a loose, loamy texture.
To maximize flower production, site your clematis in full sun. Though most varieties will grow in half-day sun, they do not produce as many blooms. Clematis that are known to perform relatively well in half-day sun include Jackmanii, Nelly Moser and Henryi.
If possible, choose a spot where the plant’s root zone will be shaded and stay relatively cool. If there are no plants nearby to shade the soil, you can mulch around the base of the plant with shredded leaves or compost. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the plant’s stems.
Here are a few places to consider planting clematis:
- Against a wall (although not under a roof overhang that would block rainfall)
- On a fence (attach wire mesh if needed)
- Near a shrub or small tree (for easy support)
- With another vine (such as a climbing rose)
- Over an arbor or pergola (attach wire mesh if needed)
- Along the top of a stone wall
- On a free-standing trellis or tuteur
- Around a lamp post or mailbox (attach wire mesh)
- In a container (compact varieties)
Take Care When Planting
The root system of a clematis is wiry rather than fibrous. This is one of the reasons why a two-year-old clematis plant has a considerably smaller root ball than than other two-year-old perennials. You’ll also find that the vines themselves are relatively brittle and need to be handled gently.
When you’re ready to plant, loosen the soil to a depth of about 12.” Add compost and mix well. Dig a small hole and position the new plant so the crown (where roots meet stem) is positioned about 2” below the soil surface. Backfill the hole and water deeply to settle the roots. Water regularly during the first growing season to ensure the roots don’t dry out. Your clematis may need a full year to get established before it begins producing flowers.
Protect the young plant from nibbling mice, rabbits and voles by surrounding it with a cylinder of wire mesh. Even though it will take a couple years for the plant to reach its full height, the vines need support right from the start.
Provide Proper Support
Though some types of clematis have a bushy growth habit, most are born to climb. And as with other climbing plants, the new shoots need to find something to grab onto or they will stop growing and die back. Providing your clematis with right type of support will help it look good and grow well.
It’s common to underestimate how tall the trellis needs to be. If it’s too short, your clematis will reach the top and then flop over on itself. This is not a great look, and any breaks in the vine will make it more susceptible to disease.
One of the simplest and most effective trellises for a clematis is a wire grid with openings that are 2” to 4” in diameter. Black or green poly-coated fencing is strong and long-lasting. If it’s flexible, you can even mold it around a post or along the top of a fence. Concrete reinforcing wire (sometimes called re-mesh) is rigid and more challenging to handle, but can be made into a strong and attractive trellis that lasts for many years.
A newly planted clematis should be given a “training” trellis to help it get started. You’ll need a 12″ square of chicken wire or some other relatively flexible wire mesh that has 1″ or 2″ openings. Anchor this mini trellis to the ground behind the plant and then attach it securely to the permanent trellis.
If you want to keep your clematis looking tidy, keep an eye out for wandering vines — especially during May and June. Tie them in regularly, while they are still young and supple.
Keep Pruning Simple
Each clematis variety falls into one of three pruning groups, based on where the vine sets its flower buds. This determines how the plant should be pruned. Many gardeners already find pruning intimidating — even without having to keep track of which variety needs which technique. Here is a simpler approach.
If your clematis sends up most of its new growth from the base of the plant each spring, you can be quite sure it flowers on current year vines. For best results, simply cut the entire vine to a height of 12-18″ (do this in early spring rather than fall).
If your clematis produces most of its new growth on last year’s vines, it should be minimally pruned — only enough to remove dead or week stems and maintain the desired shape. The best time to prune these plants is late summer, right after they flower.
If you are curious about the various pruning types and how to care for them, you’ll find everything you need to know on the website of the International Clematis Society: Pruning Clematis.
Keep in mind that you probably won’t need to do any pruning at all for the first two years after planting. This will give you time to watch how your new clematis grows, so you can prune accordingly.
Should your clematis ever outgrow its allocated space, know that you can start anew by simply cutting back the entire plant (in early spring) to a height of 6″. Stray vines may be trimmed back any time during the growing season.
Learn more about growing clematis here: All About Clematis. To shop our full line of clematis, click HERE.
Your article was very informative. I love my clematis and I have planted two additional vines. I live in south Georgia and wonder if our intense sun would too much heat for the plants. I have areas that are full sun and areas with full shade but not much inbetween. Any suggestions?
Hi Barbara, thanks for reading! I don’t have experience growing in Georgia, but I think most clematis should be able to handle heat as long as you can provide adequate moisture and keep the roots cool by shading the bottom of the vine. I have grown a couple clematis in full shade. They flowered OK for a few years (less than they do in sun) and then gradually faded away. If you want to give this a try, choose varieties that are known to handle shade better than others. These include most Clematis alpina, Clematis montana and Clematis viticella. Other standard clematis hybrids that will flower in part sun include Carnaby, Comtesse de Bouchard, Guernsey Cream, Hagley Hybrid, Nelly Moser, Blue Angel, Henryi, Prince Charles, Polish Spirit and Fireworks. Good luck!
Your article was so helpful. I’ve been looking for some information about clematis for a long time. Thank you
Hi Ginny – So glad! Thanks for leaving a comment. Hope your clematis bloom well this summer.
Hi, so glad I found this article on Clamatis vines! I have a few Clamatis that are planted on a corner of my house. They were planted about two or three years ago. They seem to be doing well, but I would like to move them to a pot on the front of my porch. Any suggestions before I dig them up?
Planning to move soon and would like to take them with!
Hi Sheila,
Early spring or fall would be the best time to move your clematis. Dig very carefully and try to get all the roots. Clematis stems are very brittle. Best to cut the stems quite short (4-6”) before trying to dig them up. These are woody plants, so they will take awhile to recover. Make sure to water them regularly until the roots have reestablished themselves. Good luck!
Hi Barbara, I live in SW Ga. and have a beautiful clematis that is in full sun. It must love it because it has bloomed like crazy for around 10 years now. Good luck!
I love your tips. I actually needed them last year, so I had to just improvise on my own. I had bought a purple clematis on clearance two years ago and wasn’t satisfied with my temporary trellis, so I decided to take it to the next level and give it something to really climb on and I added a white variety. My son helped me attach a length of fencing that would hang from my eaves to the ground in front of my bedroom window. We got that done and then I painstakingly wove the vines of the purple clematis as carefully as I could through the new trellis. It was brittle and I did break it in several places. The white variety was mostly all roots and never grew much, last year. This year, I was watching everything turn green and grow and I was happy to see the new vies grabbing onto the fencing. There were lots of buds.I couldn’t tell if the white variety had survived the winter. I got a very nice surprise to see it blooming along with the purple clematis. I think I created a winner and look forward to it’s maturity. I’d post a picture, if I knew how. Thanks for the tips! I saved them for future reference.
Hi Melva – what a wonderful description. As I read your note I could see just how it must look. So glad your clematis are happy and blooming. They are long-lived perennials, so hopefully they will give you many years of enjoyment. I love the look of two different varieties intertwined. Good work!!
Hi! Thank you so much for your advice–new gardener here. I planted 3 small clematis plants in front of a 6 foot white PVC fence last year. I bought them at home depot and they came attached to a very small wooden stake/trellis about 1 foot high. I did not realize that the plant would take off this year, and it is now growing towards my other plantings on the ground horizontally and looks like a small shrub. Is there any way I can get it to grow up the PVC fence? Can i attach something to the fence without making holes in the fence, or is there something I can put against the fence? How do I then get the plant to grow back onto the new trellis/fence structure? I am clearly lost, thank you so much.
Hi Eve,
You will need to attach some kind of trellis or a wire grid to your fence. As you probably read in the article, clematis climbs by using leaf tendrils. They can only grab something that’s less than 1/4″ thick. You could use wire to securely attach a piece of plastic-coated wire fencing to the PVC fence. The grid size should be no less than 2″ and there should be several inches between the wire grid and the PVC fence. You’ll then need to gently lift the vine(s) off the ground and use twine to loosely tie them to the trellis until they get themselves established. Good luck!
I live in the Eastern plains of Colorado but at 6800 feet. My clematis always starts out well, lots of buds, then the leaves start curling, browning and vines die back. Any suggestions?
Hi Gina — What you are describing sounds like clematis wilt. Here are two links that may be helpful. Penn State Clematis Diseases and an excellent article about clematis wilt from the International Clematis Society. Good luck!
Hi Kath,
Such an informative and helpful article – thanks! We’d love to grow clematis, but have moved to an area of clay soil in Pittsburgh, PA, which is very challenging. Any suggestions on successfully growing clematis in clay soil?
Hi Cindi – I have two suggestions. First, try growing clematis in containers. There are now quite a few cultivars that have been bred for growing in pots. The plants grow 4 to 6 feet tall and produce flowers from top to bottom. Here are a couple that we offer: Hakuba, Little Duckling and Multi-Blue. The other suggestion is to make a raised bed for your clematis. You can fill it with better soil and since it’s raised above the native soil there will be better drainage. Good luck!
Will clematis go dormant in the winter or is this an evergreen vine?
Hi – clematis are herbaceous perennials and lose their leaves in the winter.
Hi Kath, I am so glad I found you. I purchased a Montana Freda which I had planned to plant by a fence, however, it is impossible due to existing tree roots. I am considering a raised bed. There is probably only 4 or 5 inches that are root free, so the bed this will have to be fairly deep. I have found two that are stackable: 2X2 or 2X4, ( which I imagine is the size the clematis would want?) I am unsure of how much depth I would need.
Hi Sandy – That type of clematis gets very large. Though a 2×2 bed would provide enough surface area, you’re right that the plant will need more soil for its roots and to ensure consistent moisture for sustaining all that top growth. So your inclination to go with 2×4 is smart. I’d try to give it 18″ of depth (including the top 4-5″ of native soil). Good luck!
Hello,
Such a helpful article! We have a clematis plant that was established when we moved in and a trellis we never moved. From your article it sounds like I need to add more wire for it to grab onto compared to what we have now. It is in full bloom right now but very sparse as we do not tend to it at all, how to I make it become a fuller bush or do I need to wait till next spring?
Hi Kelsey – Some clematis varieties are simply more vigorous than others. I have also found they can be quite particular about where they are planted. Good drainage is always important. You can mulch around your plant with compost at any time of year and boost its vigor with a couple doses of liquid fertilizer (any time before mid-July).
Hi, I have had my clematis four 2 years it’s healthy however have not produced any flowers. Help
Hi Tina, Could the problem be lack of sun? Some clematis cultivars will flower in partial sun, but most of them need full sun to bloom well. You could try moving your clematis to another location and see if it does better there. Best time to move it would be early spring while the plant is still dormant.
One other possibility is too much nitrogen. When plants have access to more nitrogen than they need, they will put their energy into producing foliage rather than flowers. If you have been fertilizing, stop fertilizing for the rest of the season and see what happens. Hope this helps!
Loved the article. Very informative. Question, although I can’t remember which kind of clematis I have , I wonder why after it has bloomed and has grown, some of the vines start to dye. Some of the leaves also show spots as if sick.
They are like this one you posted
https://blog.longfield-gardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/purple-768×864.jpg
Deep wine color. Thanks.
Hi Claudia,
It sounds like clematis wilt. This is a common fungal disease that affects clematis. The leaves are affected first, but then some or all of the stems may turn black and die back to the ground. Some varieties seem to be more susceptible than others, but it can affect all large-flowered clematis. Though the plant may be gone for this year, the disease usually doesn’t kill the plant and you can expect it to come back next year. Here is a link to an article from the Missouri Botanical Garden that explains how the disease works and what you can do to help avoid it.
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/cankers/clematis-wilt.aspx
Love your blogs, I have a clematis in a pot , do I need to bring it in during winter months of can I just put straw over it? It’s my 1st one and I need help with this. I live in central missouri . Thanks a lot to your advice.
Hi Theresa — sorry I missed your comment until now. Container-grown perennials that spend the winter in a pot outdoors, should be treated as if they will be going through a winter that is a full growing zone colder. Since most clematis are hardy in zones 4 or 5, yours should be OK left outdoors. What’s most important is to maintain the proper amount of moisture in the soil. Don’t let the roots dry out, but just as importantly, don’t let the soil get soggy. Insulating around the pot is a good idea — it will help prevent the freeze/thaw cycles that cause problems for clematis and other plants. Again, just keep an eye on the soil and don’t let it get too wet. Hope this helps.
I have 6 different clematis. Five of them are planted under a split rail fence and 1 on a trellis. I wrap twine on the fence and the plants grow beautifully!
Each fall I cut them off all the way to the ground. I
They return each spring! They are 12 years old and never disappoint!
Laura
Hi Laura – Yes! Clematis are so easy and rewarding. Thank you for encouraging others to give them a try.
Kathy, my first attempt at growing a clematis was in Missouri. I planted it in a very large pot and centered it under a metal oblisk. It grew and bloomed ( I was thrilled), then it started to fad away. The stems looked brown and the leaves fell off. I thought it had died…so I cut it back to the pot and untangled the brown stem and threw them away. I was going to plant something else in the pot as it sat by the steps of the front porch.
We had a rainbird watering system for the yard and the timer was set to water at different days through the week and it always hit that pot.
When I finally got around to buying some new plants, I was prepared to tear out the clematis but to my surprise , it had sent up new shoots and they were climbing the oblisk already.
When I moved, a neighbor wanted it and I couldn’t move it…but what kind of clematis would you think it might have been…to be cut back during it’s growing season and then bloom again.
Thank you for your lovely article.
Nancy
Hi Nancy – Thank you for your comments. It sounds to me like your clematis was suffering from clematis wilt, which is a very common fungal disease. It usually occurs in mid to late summer and the first sign is often brown spots on the foliage. Eventually the leaves may turn completely brown and the stems may die back to the ground. There’s nothing you can do about it, but fortunately wilt rarely kills the plant. Though your plant appeared to be dead, it was just done for that growing season and returned the next spring. As with other fungal diseases, the best preventative is good air circulation. Also, some varieties of clematis are more susceptible to wilt than others, so next time you purchase a clematis, shop around for one with good resistance.
Do clematis bloom more than one time a season? Mine are so beautiful but they only bloom in early spring in middle Georgia!
Hi Beverly – Like other perennials such as peonies and iris, most clematis flower just once each season. But there are some cultivars that will produce a big show of flowers in early summer and then bloom again in fall. Others will flower on and off throughout the summer. If you want to add another clematis with a different bloom time, just check the information about when it flowers before you make your choice.
Hi Kath, I moved almost 2 years ago in July and didn’t want to leave behind my clematis rooguchi. I don’t think it made it though as it still has not come up from the pot I planted it in 🙁 Although it’s hard to find I found it in 5″ pots and ordered two that should arrive soon. My question to you is: do you think this variety will do okay in a “trench”-like planter? I am planning to move again in 4 years and would love to take it along. I live in So. Cal., zone 10, zip 92694 semi close to the ocean (I know it’s a little outside my growing zone but it seemed to do okay and I LOVED it!). If so, what kind of soil would you recommend? Any additives to the soil when I initially plant? I have miracle gro potting soil. Do you think that would be okay? Also, I just want to make sure, I believe this variety dies completely back and I cut the stems to the ground. Am I doing that right? Thank you for the informative article. I enjoyed reading it 🙂
Hi Kristy – I have Clematis rooguchi in my garden, too. Love it. I cut mine right back every year. It’s a big, vigorous plant and by the end of June it is huge again. Your planting container should be 18″ deep (minimum) and 18″ wide. There are many dwarf, container-sized clematis these days, but rooguchi isn’t one of them. This plant gets big and you need to provide plenty of space for the roots. Fill the pot with good quality growing mix that is loose and well drained. Soil mixes vary so much — make sure the one you use is not too dense or heavy. After planting, water regularly and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out between waterings. Providing consistent water is probably the biggest challenge for container-grown clematis. Top dress the pot with compost in spring and fertilize monthly during May, June and July. Hope this helps!
Love this article on Clematis, great information concerning growing tips. A beautiful and must have plant in any flower garden.
Thank You,
Truitt McClure
From Gastonia, North Carolina
Hi Truitt – thank for your comment. If you have clematis in your garden, I hope they bloom beautifully this year!
I have just read your article, Kath, located on Pinterest. I loved all the information you described about the Clematis. I’ve just purchased 3 vines.. Lowe’s had bunches of them on clearance and I saw that one had already bloomed out and it was a beautiful rich, lavender color. My backyard nestles up to a cow pasture,, where there is a wire fence that separates it , from my yard. I planted one of the young Clematis near this fence with a wire trellis behind it. I guess I’m wondering now if the plant were to be munched on later as it grows, would it be harmful to the cows?? I’m hoping eventually it will scale the fence, but it is my 1st Clematis plant ever and .I know it will get lots of sunshine in that spot. Thanks for your advice and your timely article.
Hi Lynn – thank you for your nice comments. This is the first time I’ve ever been asked if cows eat clematis! Since I don’t know the answer, I’m recommending this article from CO State University Veterinary Hospital. It says clematis is not deadly, but it can cause gastrointestinal irritation and a bitter taste can be passed through to the milk. Always wonder how they test these things — heh heh. It sounds like your clematis has been planted in a lovely spot. Maybe you can contain it in a way that the cows can’t reach it. Enjoy!
I have three clematis that I’ve had like forever. The problem is the leaves are now turning yellow. I started applying I tablespoon Epson Salt in one gallon water every other week and now the leaves halve of the leave is turning a deep purple color. Do you think it is from the Epsom salt? Also why do you think the leaves are now turning yellow after so many years of being a lush green color? Thanks for any help you can give me.
Hi Thelma – Epsom salt contains magnesium and sulfate. Clematis should be able to get all the magnesium and sulfate they need (which is very little), directly from the soil. The only reason to apply additional magnesium is when your soil is deficient in this nutrient (do a soil test to make sure it’s true). The sulfur in epsom salt could be acidifying your soil. Sulfur lowers the pH of the soil and that can cause a whole range of problems for plants. Yellow leaves are a sign that the plant is stressed and this could be the result of a pH and/or nutrient imbalance. Best to stop applying the Epsom salt and mulch around the plant with compost. Over time, compost and other organic matter (such as shredded leaves) will gradually moderate pH problems.
I planted my first clematis this spring. It is in a large container on my deck and gets sun in the mornings until around 2:00. The problem is that there has been absolutely no new growth. I am at a loss as to the problem.
Hi Deanna –
It sounds like your plant has some green leaves and is still alive, so it will probably be fine. Young clematis plants take a full growing season to get their roots established. It’s not unusual to see no new growth until midsummer.
If you do not see some growth within the next month or so, and you purchased your clematis from Longfield Gardens, please contact our customer service department (contact info is at the bottom of the home page on our website.
Hello. I want to buy a Clematis. I’m starting my very first garden. I’m excited and nervous at the same time since I know nothing about plants. Can they survive winter and bloom the coming summer? I live at Columbus, Ohio. Thank you.
Hi Vanessa – Clematis are easy to grow and the plants are winter hardy in Columbus. Just follow the planting and care instructions and you’ll do just fine. You might also be interested in reading All About Clematis.
I have several old Clematis. Only one is blooming this year. They have been
blooming less and less as the years have gone by. Any suggestions? I live in
Canada, just west of Toronto.
Joyce
Hi Joyce – Could the plants be getting more shade now than they were in the past? Most clematis require full sun in order to flower well. It’s also possible they are not getting the nutrients they need to flower. You could trying top-dressing with compost and giving them some low nitrogen fertilizer. If the plants have been gradually getting weaker, they may just be reaching the end of their productive life. All plants have a natural lifespan. Hope this helps.
HOW DO YOU GET THE FULLNESS OF PLANT? HOW MANY PLANTS DO YOU PLANT TOGETHER TO GET THAT BEAUTIFUL FULL DISPLAY?
Hi Paula – Amazingly, most of those photos probably show a single plant. When a clematis is happy, it can get very large. It also depends on the variety. If you want one that will cover a big trellis, check the expected height and choose a standard variety like Jackmanii or Nelly Moser that will grow 7+ feet tall. Avoid the compact varieties that only grow about 5 feet tall — they are less likely to give you that full look. I recently replaced an old clematis that had died. I am not known for my patience, so this time I put in 3 plants of the same variety, spaced about 12″ apart. This may prove to be a problem down the line, but in the second year they are already creating the effect I was after. We recommend spacing standard, full size clematis 18″ apart
I have a very old flower bed that has more weeds than flowers, my plan was to cover it in plastic and start over, leaving only a couple planets standing, one being a clematis. Thank you so much for this blog it’s been very helpful.
Hi Sandra – Starting fresh is a great idea. Before replanting, take time to dig and rake through the soil to make sure you have removed all the grass and perennial weeds.
Learned a lot today, my first attempt at growing clematis. I live in West Tenn, I planted in pots was wondering what to do for winter, should I bring inside or plant outside? They are under a covered patio front facing north, but gets morning and evening sun. What should I do? Yes
Jo in West Tenn.
Hi Jo – Where you live, your clematis should be able to survive the winter right in their pots. Try to replicate the conditions the plants would experience if growing in the ground. That means the roots should stay moist (not wet) and the soil should stay a relatively consistent temperature all winter long. If the soil in the container goes through several freeze-thaw cycles it can damage or kill the plant. So you may want to tuck the plants away in a protected spot and cover the pots with some mulch. This will help retain moisture in the soil and help insulate the roots from temperature extremes. Just make sure it’s not a soggy place where water will accumulate.
Hi I have a “volunteer” clematis 2nd year growth now on the dead sticks of my hydrangea. I would like to move it but it has just set on huge buds, should I wait? The hydrangea got hit with the cold this year and is only growing from the bottom , lots of sticks. Im in southern Michigan.
Hi – The best time to transplant a clematis (and most other perennials) is very early spring. Once plants are in active growth, disturbing the roots makes it difficult for them to get adequate water and nutrients. Another alternative would be fall, though in northern areas, it can be difficult for the plant to get reestablished before winter sets in.
We live in a windy area. Are there any clematis varieties that tolerate wind.
Hi Sandra – That’s an interesting question! I have three suggestions for growing clematis on a windy site. Choose a variety that can be cut to the ground each fall. That way the vines won’t be battered about all winter. Go with a variety that has smaller flowers or even bell-shaped flowers as their petals will be less likely to catch the wind and get torn. Betty Corning and Rooguchi are both terrific. Grow your clematis on a sturdy trellis and tie them in every week or two, starting when the plant is just 2 feet tall. Enjoy!
Can I plant a Clematis in the fall zone 5 Nebraska or should I wait until spring?
If the clematis has been growing in a pot all summer, it should work fine to plant it in the fall. Bare root plants and plugs need to be planted in spring in order to have enough time to develop good root systems.
I have a clematis for a few years now next to my pergola. My hope was that it would climb up and over the top, but as soon as it blooms it stops growing upward and only ever grows to a height of about 6 to 8 feet. Is there something I can do to encourage more growth?
Hi – It’s normal for many varieties of clematis to mature at 5 or 6 feet tall. But there are quite a few others that naturally grow much taller. Betty Corning and Polish Spirit are two that can quite easily reach 10 feet tall.
I want to start growing clamati’s. I have 2 rock Gardens and rock around my house. Do I have to remove the rock in the area I wish to plant them and leave the dirt showing? There is not a lot of sun on the north side of the house, so does one even try growing clamati’s there, would be seen by lots of people?
Hi – Most clematis flower best in full sun. With a north-facing location you may or may not get a good amount of flowers. If you want to give it a try, plant a variety that will flower in part-sun, such as Nelly Moser and Blue Angel.
I ENJOYED YOUR BLOG!!!! I PLAN TO BUILD A PERGOLA IN MY BACKYARD NEXT SPRING WITH A WOODEN LATTICE COVERED ROOF. WILL IT BE NECESSARY TO COVER THE LATTICE COVERED ROOF AND POSTS WITH THE WIRE MESH? OR IF I ALSO COVERED THE POST WITH LATTICE WOULD THAT WORK ? THE PERGOLA WILL BE 16×24 feet. There Will be 8 6×10 posts. Should I place a plant at each post to ensure full coverage of the entire roof? I live in New York and plan to use pots.I will take your advice as to the size of the pots. Are there any Clematis which will grow taller than 10 feet? Thank you for your help.
Hi – The plants will need some kind of way to attach themselves so they cover the posts. If you use wire mesh, make sure the mesh size is 1″ or more. Clematis that are grown in containers will not be as large and robust as plants that are grown in the ground. So I don’t know how much coverage you can expect. On a pergola, clematis are often combined with other types of climbers to provide a fuller look. You’ll probably need at least one clematis per post. Thorncroft Clematis Nursery is located in the UK, so you can’t purchase their plants, but they have an extensive list of varieties that can be sorted by height. Though you’ll need to do some searching, many of these should be available here in the US.
Somebody gave me a Will Godwin. . How can I know what season to expect blooms
next year? My Moon Flower spoiled me,,,,
Hi – How quickly it grows and blooms depends on the age and vigor of the plant that you started with — and how happy it is where you have planted it. That said, you should start to get some flowers the second year.
Love all the info on Clematis, i have never grown any, and wanted to know if it is best to plant seeds or plants, i am hoping to plant some next spring.
Hi Katie – You will want to start with 2-year-old plants — either bare root or potted. Like most perennials, clematis are rarely grown from seed (except by breeders or collectors).
Hello, I live in San Tan Valley, AZ and wondering if Clematis can grow and survive in our summer temperatures? I have been successful with them when living back in MA, but have no idea where to start with getting one established in a AZ landscape. Any suggestions, Thanks
Hi Kathleen – As long as you are not in the low desert, you should be able to grow clematis. Choose a location that’s in part shade or full sun, although intense sunlight may bleach the color of the flowers. Plant in fertile, well drained soil and water regularly. Apply mulch around the base of the vine to cool the root zone. You’ll find more information in this cooperative extension article: Landscape Vines for Southern Arizona.
Are Clematis deerproof, or at least deer resistant??
Sorry to say, they are not. Rutgers University in NJ conducts research on deer resistant plants. They give clematis a “C”, which means “occasionally severely damaged.” But if you purchase a clematis that can be cut to the ground each fall, you won’t need to worry about winter damage. Here’s a link to the Rutgers website. You can search for clematis or other types of plants: https://njaes.rutgers.edu/deer-resistant-plants/
Can clematis take the hot afternoon sun or do they do better with the morning sun only. Trying to figure out where to plant.
Hi – Morning sun is best for clematis. They don’t like a lot of heat.
Good Article. Do you think and old wood painter ladder would work good for a clematis?
Hi Pam – As a framework, the ladder will work great — cool idea! But I’m afraid the rungs may be too fat for the stem tendrils to wrap around. A half-inch diameter is usually considered the maximum thickness. You could overlay the ladder with a grid of wire or a poly-trellis or even twine. It won’t be visible once it’s covered with foliage, so you’ll see the charm of the old ladder and not the infrastructure. I usually wind up having to tie in my clematis as they grow — no matter what they are growing on, so I think this is worth a try!
Hi, so I have tried a couple of times to grow clamatis with no success, so when they say it’s easy, well apparently not for me, even putting it in different places has not worked. I think it liked its last location but is was only there two years before my husband dug it up my mistake, the location is full sun until 4:00. It can be hot but it would have a bush close to it. I have another location that has sun but it has a fence in front so maybe not as hot, the sun rises on the other side of the fence east then comes around. I have read many articles so i feel I know what to do, I’m perplexed as to why I have not been successful. So I guess my question is where do you think it would be more successful thank you
Hi Kim, It sounds like at least one of the problems was human (husband) error, so you can’t really count that as a fail. Since you already know what clematis want for a planting location, I have just one suggestion. Purchase a larger than average plant. I have many clematis in my garden. This year I purchased one more at a local garden center. It was 3 feet tall and in a 2 gallon container. When I planted it, I could see that the root ball had completely filled the container. So it was a very mature, probably 3-year-old plant. I made a nice planting spot for it and have been watering it twice a week (it’s been dry). The plant looks great, has lots of buds and is already climbing up its new trellis. Clematis are very slow-growing (for the first couple years). Maybe if you start with a more mature plant it will be more likely to succeed. Good luck!
I have had a multi blue clematis for five years and I blooms sparsely each year. It also never gives me multiple hues of blue – just light blue flowers. It is growing on a trellis attached to a tree and grows up to 6-8 feet each year. It’s supposed to bloom in late spring/early summer and fall. I have never gotten fall blooms. Do you have any suggestions for additional nutrients this multi-blue may need to perform as it should-I’d really appreciate it! I am in Chicago and the vine is on the north side of the house but protected by a 6 foot wood fence during the winter and well mulched.
Hi Sandra – The sparse flowering is probably due to lack of light. Most clematis need a minimum of 6 hours of direct light each day. No amount of nutrients will compensate for lack of light, as that’s what the plant needs to produce energy for flowering. Is it possible to move the plant to a sunnier location? If yes, transplant in fall or early spring and take care to dig slowly and disturb the relatively brittle roots as little as possible.
Hi ,
I have a concrete wall and instead of the clematis climbing up, I was wondering if the clematis will climb down the wall?
Hi Tammy – What an interesting question. Clematis is often grown up a trellis or fence and when it gets to the top, it spills sideways or downward. But I don’t if you can get it to only grow downward. Most plants naturally want to grow up toward the sun. Probably worth a try!
Hi my clematis is in a pot and wants to plant it in the ground but it is July and i get midday 🌞 so is this a good time to it bloom early spring .
Potted perennials may be planted at any time during the growing season. After planting, be sure to water frequently in order to keep the soil consistently moist while the plant is establishing new roots. Find a way to shade the plant from too much sun during the first 2-3 weeks.
Thank you for great article, soo much information. And the question which you faithfully answered each time was very helpful. I read each one hoping someone asked my question, but unfortunately none.
So here’s my question- I live in NM, outskirts of Santa Fe. I just transplanted my jackmanni Clematis in the front part of our porch (facing west) and one on the south side behind our house by the fence. It’s April 4th and I’m worried that the young plant (about 2 feet one stem, which I grew inside my sunroom since I receive a tiny plant in the fall), will die if frost comes. What should I do? Will it survive during frost, or do I just take out back out from the ground and wait until the last frost? Thank you so much for your reply!
Charity
Hi Charity – Sorry not to respond sooner. You have probably come up with a solution by now. Once established, clematis plants are very cold tolerant, but young plants with tender new foliage can be damaged by cold temperatures. I recommend leaving the plant where it is and simply covering it with frost cloth until the weather settles. Or drape something over it on very cold nights. Frost cloth (sometimes called garden fabric) is very handy to have around. I couldn’t garden without it!
Hi Kath, you are such a treasure for us gardeners! I really admire you answering all questions! I followed your advice for the dreaded red lily beetle, and I might be able to win the the battle. I grow several clematis successfully, but the one I treasure most is Mayleen. Ic now on my second plant, the first one came through the NY winter, gave me a few flowers than it died, it may have been wilt, even though the lady is supposed to be wilt resistant. So this spring I planted it a bit deeper and keep my fingers crossed. In the article you mentioned that spring flowering plants can be cut back to 18 inches, maybe I will try that next Spring. Can I propagate this type from cuttings? Again, many thanks for answering so patiently.
Hi Ursula – thank you for your nice feedback! Good luck with that second clematis. I have some clematis that have been with me for many years, but have lost plenty of others for unknown reasons. While I am always sad to lose them, it’s not so bad to have a reason to purchase another plant. I have never tried propagating clematis from cuttings. You may be able to find some information on the website of the International Clematis Society. Good luck!
Hi Kath,
Thank you for this article ! Just lovely !
I wanted to ask you about one of my clematis plants. It just won’t climb. It’s turned into more of a small shrub. It still flowers but only a few . I think I may have to get it early spring and lead it up the trellis but even when I try now just no luck. It’s very full and bushy and quite lush and beautiful but it just will NOT climb! Any suggestions? Thank you kindly and happy gardening !
With much love and enthusiasm,
Jenn Dixon
Hi – There are some clematis that have a bushy growth habit and do not climb. Maybe you have one of these, which are known as “herbaceous types”. Well-known cultivars include ‘Arabella,’ ‘Juuli,’ and ‘Rosea.’ Also, most clematis require full sun in order to produce a good show of flowers. Be sure yours is getting enough sun.