7 Tips for Growing Hostas
Hostas are the go-to perennial for shady gardens, and for good reason. These rugged plants live for decades and require virtually no attention. Rake away the old leaves in spring and you’re done! Here are some tips to help you take full advantage of these easy and rewarding shade-loving plants.
Hostas are Available in Small, Medium and Large
It’s hard not to be impulsive when you’re buying plants, but with hostas, it’s important to match the size of the plant with the space that’s available. Most hosta plants look similar when they’re in a pot, but things change once they’re in the ground! Some will stay about 6 inches tall, while others can grow almost waist high with an equal spread.
Unlike most perennials, hostas rarely need to be divided — unless they outgrow their allotted space and start crowding neighboring plants. So be sure to read the label and think about how the plants will fill the space once they reach their mature size. If you choose varieties that grow too large, or position the plants too closely together, you’ll soon be doing some dividing and transplanting.
Get Creative with Leaf Sizes, Shapes, Colors and Textures
There are thousands of registered hosta varieties to choose from. Leaf colors include green, chartreuse, gold and dusky blue, and many cultivars have variegated foliage with white or gold edges, splotches, streaks or splashes. Leaf shapes can be round, oval, heart-shaped or lance-shaped. The texture of the leaves may be smooth, pleated, dimpled or puckered. By taking advantage of these differences, you can weave a beautiful tapestry of hosta foliage that provides lots of visual interest all season long.
Most hostas have relatively large leaves and a dense presence in the landscape. To lighten them up, combine them with plants that have a finer texture, such as ferns or the lacy leaves of astilbe, goatsbeard, thalictrum and bugbane. Plants with a grassy texture such as Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa), carex or acorus are also good for providing textural contrast.
Hosta plantaginea has large, fragrant flowers in late summer.
Hostas Have Flowers, Too!
Though hostas are grown primarily for their foliage, most cultivars also produce flowers sometime between mid-June and September. Hosta flower spikes rise well above the foliage and feature tubular blossoms that open gradually from the bottom up. Most varieties have pale lavender flowers, but they may also be pink or white.
Most hosta flowers are not particularly showy, but they do attract hummingbirds. Some gardeners remove the flower spikes because they feel they detract from the rest of the plant. This causes no harm but will disappoint the bees and hummingbirds that normally feed on the nectar. An exception is Hosta plantaginea, (shown above) which has spectacular flowers that are also very fragrant.
The Quality of Shade Matters
You can assume that all hosta varieties will grow well in the dappled light beneath shade trees or with 4 to 5 hours of morning light. Leaf colors are usually brighter and display more pronounced variegation when the plants get plenty of light.
If you garden in a southern area, you will need to be careful about where you plant hostas. Too much sun and not enough moisture can damage the foliage. If the leaves begin showing scorched edges or brown tips, the plants should be moved to a different location where they will get more shade and more moisture.
In the northern tier of the country, hostas can sometimes be grown in full sun — as long as they get plenty of water. When selecting plants, be aware that some cultivars can tolerate more sunlight than others. Fragrant hybrids (which have H. plantaginea in them) are generally more sun tolerant. Those with blue-green foliage fade to yellow-green if they get too much sun.
Hostas are Thirsty Plants
To keep your hostas looking lush and full, make sure they get about an inch of water per week. Depending on the weather and where you live, natural precipitation may not be adequate. Consistent moisture is especially important during the first few years when the plants are getting established. Hostas that are planted under shade trees usually need to be watered regularly, because the trees will be the first to grab any natural moisture. Covering exposed soil with mulch and/or planting thickly enough to shade the soil will reduce evaporation. If you do need to water, it’s best to apply it deeply and infrequently.
Though hostas need consistent moisture during the growing season, they require very little in the winter. In fact, wet winter soils can make the plants susceptible to crown and root rot. The best soil for hostas is well-drained with plenty of moisture-absorbing organic matter such as compost or leaf mold.
Hosta June in the foreground.
Hostas Have a Few Enemies
If you already battle slugs and snails, hostas may not be a good fit for your yard. These slimy pests nibble on tender hosta shoots and may continue to snack on the leaves during the growing season. Slug bait and beer traps can help, but the best solution is planting hostas with thicker than average leaves. These “slug resistant” cultivars are far less appealing to slugs. Examples include Blue Angel, Sum and Substance, June and Halcyon.
Unfortunately, deer will go well out of their way to munch on hostas. Scent deterrents can be effective as long as you begin spraying before the plants emerge and continue spraying weekly and after heavy rain. Deer repellants are also available in pellet form.
An Easy Landscaping Solution
Low-growing hostas are ideal for planting beneath shrubs or along the edge of a shady walkway. For early season color, add spring-blooming bulbs such as daffodils and alliums. The bulbs will flower early, and the hostas will be happy to hide their fading foliage.
Hostas are excellent companions for other shade loving plants, but gardens that include only hostas can also be surprisingly beautiful. Start with at least 3 to 5 plants of 3 to 5 different varieties. Cluster each variety into an irregular shape and then put the groups side by side to create a pleasing tapestry of color and texture.
Longfield Gardens offers more than a dozen tried and true hosta varieties, which are available HERE.
This web site is difficult to use. Every time I put something in the search slot , if I click on it the product I’m looking for disappears. I have several times to order more than one plant but am unable to.
Hi Margaret — I’m sorry you are having difficulty with our website. I have asked someone in our customer service department to email you directly with an offer to help.
My hostas, which are planted under a red maple tree, are forming yellow leaves which turn brown then look bad. We are in Michigan and have had a lot of rain. When we haven’t had rain, the hostas have been watered. Is there a hosta disease which creates yellowing leaves?
Hi Gloria – Most yellowing/browning of leaves is caused either by drought or too much sun. Though you have had a lot of rain and have also been watering, the issue may still be drought. Maple trees have shallow roots that “steal” any available moisture. This makes it difficult to grow other plants under their canopy. And this is especially true for red maples, which also tend to create very dense shade. This article in the American Horticultural Society magazine explains the issues and recommends plants that will tolerate these conditions.
You may also want to reference this excellent article from the Missouri Botanical Garden. It has photos and descriptions of various hosta problems.
I am having difficulty growing them under a Mulberry tree. Any suggestions?
Hi Trudy – A large mulberry tree can create very deep shade. There may not be enough light for even shade tolerant plants to thrive. You could consider limbing up the tree a bit to let more light reach the ground beneath the branches. If there is plenty of light, the soil could be too thin or there may not be enough moisture for the hostas. In that case, you could consider mulching beneath the tree and gradually building up a deeper, more humus-rich soil layer.
Can hostas grow in acidic soil
Hi Jackie, Hostas, like most garden perennials, grow best in soil that has a relatively neutral to slightly acidic pH.
I can suggest two ways to counterbalance the acidifying effects of pine needles. One is to rake them away from the garden area as much as is practically possible. The other is to amend the soil with lots of compost at planting time and then top dress the garden with 2-3 more inches of compost each spring. Organic matter does not correct soil pH but it helps to moderate the effects.
Trying to cover the base of a maple tree. 8ft by 8ft.how far apart should I plant the Hostas and can I plant them one bulb at a time or do they need to be bunched/group?
Thanks Kim
Hi Kim – Each hosta plant needs its own space, so plant them individually. There’s no hard and fast rule for spacing, as each variety of hosta gets to be a different size. That information should be on the packaging or label. You want to allow enough pace for each plant to reach its mature size. This article may be helpful: All About Hostas.
The early, unfurled leaves are edible. We stir fry them with bacon bits, and they can also be lightly stir-fried in sesame oil and sprinkled with soy sauce.
hosta plant being eaten by bugsl
To find a solution to the problem, you need to identify the pest. With hostas, it’s likely slugs or snails. You can find information about them in this article: How to Control Slugs and Snails.
Can I grow hostas inside?
Hi – Have not heard of doing that. My guess is that they may survive indoors, but would probably be leggy and not very attractive — and would go dormant during the winter months.
Why are my osta full of holes and chewed away .
Holes and chewed edges indicate slug or snail damage. You can find some suggestions in this article: How to Control Slugs and Snails
One of my baby hostas in a large pot has yellow leaves. Too much water?
Yellowing leaves is often a sign of too much moisture. But if it’s happening now (in fall), this is normal as the plant is beginning to enter winter dormancy.
My hosta leaves are thin, long, split and fall over. Not full and attractive. Does this mean they need more water?
It sounds like your hostas are not healthy/happy. This could be due to many different things: soil texture and fertility, sun exposure, moisture and temperature. In the spring, you could dig out the plants and set them aside. Then dig through the soil with a garden fork to loosen the soil a foot deep. Add several inches of compost and blend into the planting area. Replant the hostas and water regularly until the plants are well established.
Hi I am growing hosta’s from seed this is my first time any tips??
Hi – I have never grown hostas from seed, so can’t provide any tips. You may find some information via the American Hosta Society. Good luck!
Thank you I will keep you updated!
So I found a little baby hosta plant outside it was so small so i took it and put it in to a Dixie cup with some soil and it is starting to turn yellow was dose this mean?
The best place for that little hosta plant is in the garden. This way it will get the proper amount of light and moisture. Clear out a little area and plant it. Mark with something so you don’t lose track of it.
ok
my hosts start out great, bloom beautifully then starting in July they start to develop yellow starts around the outer edges, they don’t turn brown just develop these yellow lines around outer leaf..could they need iron?
Hi Lorna – Not sure what is happening. Disease problems may first appear on the leaves, but also affect the stems and you would be able to see decay. So that’s probably not the problem. It could it be stress from too much sun or not enough moisture in the soil. Some hosta varieties are more sensitive than others. If neighboring plants look fine, consider moving this one to a more sheltered location and see if it improves.
My hostas are up this spring and looking really nice. However, we are going to have a late freeze down to 26°. Should I cover them with something or will they be OK?
Hi – always hard to know for sure what will happen. If it’s easy to cover the plants, do!
I’m starting A new garden so currently have no shade at all. I plan on planting some hostas on the east facing side of the house. Will they be ok without any shade? I’m in Boise Idaho
Hi – might be good to start with a sun tolerant hosta variety. On the east side they should be protected from hot afternoon sun and will hopefully be ok. Sun intensity varies from one place to another, so, like most things gardening, it’s always a bit of a learning experience. Good luck!
my 3 year old hostas did not reemerge this spring. digging into the plant’s growing site revealed no remains of the plants – nothing. What happened?
Hi – Sorry to hear you have lost your hostas. I have never heard of this and can only think it may have been voles. They are herbivores and during the winter they eat bulbs, roots and other plant material. Maybe someone else reading these comments has another idea to suggest.
Hello. My hosta plants are growing new hostas on top of themselves. I have never seen this before. Should I trim away this new growth?
Hi – I am unfamiliar with this problem. Yes, I would trim off the irregular growth and see if the plant returns to normal.
Hi! I have 2 hostas that I planted in the shade, and they look healthy, but won’t grow any taller than 1 inch. I’ve added compost, liquid fertilizer, & 10-10-10 fertilizer, along with bug-be-gone & 3-in-1 organic garden spray. Why won’t they grow any bigger? What else can I do to get them to grow? Thanks!
Hi – You may want to try planting a different hosta cultivar and see if it performs better. Hostas are usually very easy to grow and should only be fertilized in the spring.
I planted Hostas about a year ago but they are not growing very quickly and only have a few leaves. They’re in forested area where filtered light doesn’t seem to bother them.
Hosta perform well in filtered light once the plants are established. But if young plants only get the minimum amount of light, they may grow very slowly. Do as much as you can to support growth until the plants have bulked up. This might include pulling back any competing foliage, watering when dry, fertilizing in spring and possibly again in midsummer.