Common Dahlia Pests and Diseases
Dahlias are vigorous plants that are born to bloom. Yet they are not invincible. If you suspect your dahlias are being attacked by a pest or disease, this article can help you identify the problem and figure out how to resolve it. But first, please note:
#1 It’s often difficult to distinguish one plant problem from another — even for an entomologist. If you can offer clarifications or suggestions, please add them to the comments below.
#2 Healthy dahlias are much more resistant to pests and disease. For best results, pamper your dahlias as you would a prized tomato plant. Learn about caring for them here: All About Dahlias, 8 Tips for Growing Better Dahlias, and 10 Questions About Growing Dahlias.
COMMON DAHLIA PESTS
A slug munching on a young dahlia.
Slugs and Snails
These slimy pests are most destructive early in the growing season when dahlia foliage is soft and tender. As the plants grow, their stems and leaves toughen up and become more resistant to damage.
To deter slugs and snails, keep the soil surface as dry as possible. In damp weather, patrol daily (morning and/or evening) to gather and destroy these slimy beasts. You can also protect young plants with an organic slug repellent such as Sluggo.
An earwig feeding on dahlia leaves.
Earwigs
These creepy-crawly insects feed on decaying plant matter. Unfortunately, they also like munching on tender dahlia leaves and flower buds. Earwigs are largely nocturnal and during the day they like to hide among clusters of emerging leaves. You may notice their black frass (shown above) before you see them. Chewed young leaves, buds and flowers are signs of earwig damage.
A dahlia flower that was damaged by earwigs.
To help deter these pests, keep the area around your dahlias tidy. This means removing spent flowers, pruned foliage, weeds and other organic matter. Avoid mulching with shredded leaves or straw (both of which attract them). You can try catching earwigs in an upside-down flowerpot filled with moist, shredded leaves. Or use an earwig-control product such as Sluggo Plus, which contains the organic insecticide Spinosad.
A dahlia that has been damaged by tarnished plant bugs.
Tarnished Plant Bugs
If your dahlia flowers are occasionally distorted in shape or don’t open properly, this may indicate tarnished plant bug damage. These pests (both the adults and the much smaller nymphs) have piercing-sucking mouth parts. As they feed, their saliva leaves behind a toxin that damages plant tissues.
Tarnished plant bugs overwinter in leaf litter, so controlling weeds and mowing nearby areas can help reduce overwintering populations. Insecticidal soaps can help reduce the severity of outbreaks.
Potato Leafhoppers
Leafhoppers usually attack in early summer. They suck plant juices from the undersides of leaves, causing the foliage to become discolored and drop off. “Hopper burn” is a characteristic yellowing and curling of the leaves. Leafhoppers weaken plants, and by moving from one plant to another, they also spread viral diseases.
Spray immature leafhoppers with insecticidal soap, making sure to get the undersides of leaves so the soap comes into contact with these soft-bodied insects.
Dahlias can usually outgrow most pest problems and still put on a beautiful show.
Thrips
These sucking insects cause discoloration and distortion of both leaves and blossoms. Left unchecked, they will weaken the entire plant. Thrips can also transmit bacteria and viruses from one plant to another.
Thrips are tiny and difficult to see. They prefer a dry environment, so keeping your dahlias watered can help discourage them. Insecticidal soaps can temporarily reduce an outbreak. Get more information about this pest and how to control it in this article from the Missouri Botanical Garden: Thrips Outdoors
Spider mite damage showing stippling and webbing.
Spider Mites
These plant pests are true spiders that, like thrips, suck plant juices and cause dahlia foliage to become mottled with yellow. When they are under attack by spider mites, dahlias lose vigor and their leaves begin to wilt and drop off. Spider mites are tiny and difficult to see without a magnifying glass. Look for signs of their webs between the leaves. They thrive in hot, dry weather.
Insecticidal soaps and horticultural oil sprays can be used to control spider mites. For a complete description of this pest and various control options, read: Coping with Spider Mites from the American Dahlia Society.
COMMON DAHLIA DISEASES
Fungal Diseases
The soil is filled with fungi and most of them are good. But some can cause problems for plants, including dahlias. Here are the most common fungal diseases of dahlias. More information is available in this article from the American Dahlia Society.
Powdery mildew on a dahlia.
Powdery Mildew
This disease is common in warm, humid climates. It usually shows up during the second half of the growing season. Though powdery mildew can weaken plants, the damage is largely cosmetic. To help to control it, keep dahlia foliage as dry as possible and encourage good air circulation.
If you live in an area where mildew problems are common, you may have to just live with the damage. Powdery mildew can be controlled with an anti-fungal spray, but the application must begin before the disease appears and continue throughout the growing season.
Botrytis
Also known as grey mold, botrytis is common in peonies and can also affect dahlias. The fungus is encouraged by cloudy, wet weather. Dahlia buds turn dark and may be covered with fuzzy grey mold. The disease eventually infects stems and can kill the plant, so it’s important to remove infected plant parts immediately.
Verticillium Wilt
When this soil-borne fungus infects a plant, it clogs up the water-conducting tissues (xylem) and prevents the circulation of water and nutrients. Leaf margins may turn brown or appear scorched. Stems may turn yellow, display brown or black streaks, or simply wilt. There is no cure for verticillium wilt and the plant will eventually die. This fungal disease typically occurs in weak plants and those that have been stressed by unfavorable weather.
A dahlia succumbing to bacterial stem rot.
Bacterial Diseases
Bacterial diseases are difficult for a home gardener to diagnose. Typically, bacteria enters plants through a wound or natural opening. If a dahlia gets infected during the growing season, overwintered tubers can carry that bacteria on to the next year. Most bacterial diseases are incurable. Affected plants should be removed and destroyed to control spread.
Bacterial Stem Rot
Infection usually starts at the soil level and moves up. Stems become soft and dark, and eventually the entire plant crumples. Unfortunately, there’s no coming back from this one.
A young dahlia with crown gall.
Leafy Gall
This peculiar bacterial disease causes clusters of distorted growth (galls) near the base of the plant. This is not curable and plants that show signs of leafy gall should be destroyed.
Examples of dahlias with mosaic virus – from Washington State University.
Viral Diseases
There are more than a dozen viruses that can infect dahlias. All have relatively similar symptoms which may include yellow spots or mottling on the leaves, yellowing along the veins, shortened leaf nodes on stems, distorted or twisted foliage, shorter than normal flower stems, poor flowering and overall stunted plants. Unfortunately, these symptoms can resemble other diseases as well as simple weather stress.
The only way to determine if a virus is present is to examine some of the infected tissue in a lab. This isn’t practical for home gardeners and it’s also unnecessary because there is no cure for any of these viral diseases. Infected dahlias should be removed as soon as possible to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. If you suspect your plants have a virus, do not make cuttings and do not overwinter the tubers, as the virus will be present in all parts of the plant.
Dahlia growers in Holland and the US are working to eliminate dahlia viruses, but it’s a big challenge. As with other plant diseases, some dahlia varieties seem to be naturally stronger and better able to resist these viruses. Washington State University has been studying dahlia viruses, and in particular dahlia mosaic virus, for more than 20 years. This website includes lots of relevant information: Virus Diseases of Dahlia.
Hopefully your dahlias will avoid most or even all of these problems. But if something does crop up, being able to identify what’s going on is the the best way to get to a solution.
What about teeny tiny worms? They are very hard to see but I usually can find them when they crawl on the petals.
Hi – If the worms aren’t doing any damage, I wouldn’t worry about them.
I had a cafe au lait suddenly wilt like it was affected by blight but when I dug up the tuber it has multiplied and looks healthy. Is it viable or should I discard it? Are the tubers likely to only grow diseased plants if I store it for next spring?
Hi – I wish I could say for sure, but it takes an expert to accurately diagnose plant diseases. The problem could have been fungal, bacterial or viral. If it were me, I would discard the tubers. Purchasing new tubers will hopefully reduce the chances of having problems again next year. Also consider your planting area. Like all plants (and people!), when dahlias are stressed they are more susceptible to disease.
Have noted the top stem of dahlia is covered with tiny dark / black insects, looks bad and have used water to clear them and it re appears again !
Any advice please
Hi Harry – sounds like it could be aphids. Search for “black bean aphid” and see if it looks like what you have. Aphids feed on tender foliage. They can be dislodged with water, but often come back. Plants that are stressed are more attractive to pests like aphids, so make sure you are providing adequate water and nutrients, and that the plants are getting enough sun. There are some organic insecticides that work well on aphids. You can also try using a mild detergent – mixed with water. Follow instructions for application as tender foliage can be damaged. Good luck!
I have crown gall on my dahlia tubers that I am digging up after the frost. I am discarding these tubers. I wanted to know if I steam the soil that they were planted in can I get rid of this problem in the bed.
Hi Deb – I’m sorry not to know the answer to your question. Looks like you are located in MA, so you should have access to an extension service plant pathologist through UMass. We have a good one here in Vermont (Ann Hazelrigg) and she may be able to either answer your question or direct you to someone else who can. Good luck!
Some of my dahlias are covered with buds which haven’t opened. They feel solid but a bit wet, and look fine except for being
black at the pointed non-stem end. What causes this? How can I control it?
Hi Sylvia – You don’t say where you are located, but regardless, February is very early for dahlias to be forming buds. Probably a good idea to snip off those early buds — sounds like they are damaged. Keep the plants healthy and they should produce many more buds in the future.
Thankyou so much Kate for replying, I live in New Zealand so it is summer here 🙂 I have a long bed full of dahlias, and with the centre dahlias the buds either won’t open, or they have brown spikey flowers instead of the usual gorgeous blooms.
Hi Sylvia – Sorry to hear about this problem. I’m not a dahlia expert, so I can’t say for sure what’s happening. But I have 3 guesses. First thing that comes to mind is thrips, which are very tiny sucking insects that are known to feed on dahlias – especially the buds. They suck plant juices and sometimes their damage isn’t evident until after they are gone. You may see deformed or brown buds and stippling on the leaves. They are hard to control, but can be managed. Second guess is a fungal disease. This can happen in wet weather, high humidity or if you are using overhead irrigation. Cut back the affected areas to increase air circulation and hopefully the plants will have time to rebound. Third possibility is virus. I don’t know if viruses are present in NZ dahlias or not. It’s a slowly growing problem here in the US. The only way to positively diagnose the presence of virus is to have the plant tissue tested in a lab. If your plants fail to thrive, dig them out in the fall and start fresh (don’t save the tubers). I had a miserable dahlia year last year with a whole range of different problems. I’m starting fresh this spring with fingers crossed! Lucky to have been in NZ for two long stays – both islands. Can’t wait until we can travel again so I can return!
Hi Kath, thank you so much for that, you have given me some clear things to go on. I’m going to look for sprays for thrips and fungal disease. As for the viruses, oh no! Nothing is without its challenges even in the garden! So glad you liked our land when you came 🙂 You have a lovely day
I planted tubers in a pot indoors from last year’s dahlias in a fresh bag of good quality potting soil. One pot of plants looks healthy. The plants in the other pot have developed what looks like a huge gall and there are tiny winged insects crawling over the soil and gall. I do not know if I need to discard or quarantine this pot of dahlias so my other plants are not affected. The gall developed after I watered the pot with the galled dahlia tubers about a month ago.
Thanks!
Hi Nan – Leafy gall does seem to be a growing problem with dahlias. I had never seen it until last year. We recommend destroying the affected plant now and also throwing out the soil. Leafy gall is a bacterial disease, so it can spread to other plants.
I am in the UK and have just dug up some of my dhalia tubers. They is a whole bunch of tubers but some are empty and look to have been eaten and some are mushy.
I have pulled apart one of the mushy ones to find loads of white tiny tiny insects that jump about when I pull it apart. Any idea what these are and how j can prevent it on my other Dhalias?
Hi – Yikes! That does not sound good. Dahlias are vulnerable to a few different pests and diseases, but I have never heard about tiny jumping bugs that eat the tubers. The National Dahlia Society in the UK may be familiar with this problem. I would check their website and look for a society branch that is near you. Good luck!
Hi Kath, a handful of our dahlias suddenly wilted after coming up a few inches. When inspecting them, we noticed that there’s a large hole in the stem at the level of the ground. The stem is still attached on one side. We haven’t seen any insects in or nearby. Have you seen this before?
Hi – So sorry to hear about your dahlias. I don’t know for sure. Maybe a cutworm? Possibly a vole or chipmunk? The good thing is that the tubers will probably send up additional sprouts. Try encircling the plants with nursery pots that have the bottom cut out or figure out some other way to protect them while young. Once the plants are a foot high or so, the stems will be woodier and harder to attack. Good luck!
Hi I am growing a dahlia in a pot. It looks healthy other an an aphid or two, but three blooms have dropped off, separating right at the base of the bloom. The stem appears cleanly cut but there are no signs of damage or predators. The blooms look fresh when this happens. What is going on?
Hi Pat – Hmm. Not sure about this one. Honestly, there are so many different things that can happen to dahlias. I have not seen earwigs cut off the buds, but it’s a possibility. Sometimes the first round of buds don’t open correctly. I would cut the stem back and keep your fingers crossed. Fortunately, these problems often pass and the plant winds up performing beautifully. I hope this is what happens with yours!
You label of the Dahlia disease “crown gall” is incorrect. This is leafy gall.
Hi Polly – you are correct and this has been corrected.
Hi I am growing dahlias in raised beds and for the past 3-4 weeks I find dying leaves every day I inspect them. The leaves started to become either lighter green, yellow or getting brown to the side. It started with the bottom leaves first so I removed them, I gave some fertilizer but the leaves are still not good. The number of leaves is smaller but it’s affecting the higher up the stem leaves. Do you know what could it be? I live in NY zone 6. I already had earwigs, some aphids, now I am treating powdery mildew with hydrogen peroxide. I don’t know what else could it be. Thank you
Hi Greta – Dahlias are susceptible to a number of viruses and are more vulnerable when the plants are stressed by disease and insects. The symptoms you are describing could be a virus, but it may also be indicating the plant is stressed. When stressed, a dahlia’s leaves can become mottled and the lower leaves can brown on the edges.
It’s impossible to confirm that a dahlia has a virus without doing a tissue sample in a lab. If it is a virus, the plant will continue to decline and should be removed and destroyed. That said, I have seen dahlias with similar symptoms revive when the weather conditions improve.
Hi Kath,
Thanks for all this great info. I have a number of leaves that look as though there is a tiny worm embedded in the leaves. Any idea what this might be?
Thanks in advance.
Anne (zone 5a)
Hi Anne – This is a pest I have not encountered. Probably some type of leaf miner. Best to remove any of the affected leaves and hopefully it will be a passing issue!
It looks like all of my dahlias have spider mites. They are still blooming(most of them) but can the tubers still be saved in the Fall?
Hi Donna – If the plants are relatively healthy when frost comes, the tubers should be fine.
Some of my dahlias are brown at the base of the blossom. Are they not getting enough water. I live in North Carolina and our summer is hot, although we’ve had quite a bit of rainfall thank you. JanT
Hi Jan – Dahlias grow best with consistent moisture. What you are describing could be due to irregular watering or it could be a sign of thrip damage. Thrips can be a problem, especially in hot weather. Spraying with Spinosad can knock back thrips. If you use it, be sure to spray at dawn or dusk to avoid the bees.
Hi! I live in Argentina (US zone 8) and have grown Dahlias for many years. Sometimes while dividing them I come across brown thickish blotches on the skin of tubers. They are easy to remove by scraping until one gets to white flesh, but I wonder if it’s a disease I should worry about
Hi Vivian – I have never heard of this. Maybe it’s like scab on potatoes, which is unsightly but doesn’t cause any harm.
I’m in SW Pa, zone 6 and recently dug up a few dahlia tubers. Some had white nodules along the roots and over the surface of the tubers. It doesn’t seem to match IDs I’m seeing of gall. Could they be nematodes? Is there anything I should do?
Hi Emily – That’s not something I have seen or read about. Nematodes is a good guess. I always recommend tossing any questionable tubers. It’s just not worth the risk. Next year, do everything you can to improve the soil and reduce plant stress. Get a soil test, add compost, feed your dahlias with organic nutrients such as fish emulsion and seaweed, and water as needed to maintain consistent moisture. Good luck!
Hi,
in a leafy gall disease case is it safe to plant dahlias in that spot or not? Is there anything in particular I should do?
Thank you!
Laura
Hi Laura – How/why the leafy gall bacterium affects some plants and not others is poorly understood. Since the bacterium can live in the soil, the only way to make sure it’s not present is to sterilize the soil. While this is possible for commercial growers, it’s not an option for home gardeners and may have other downsides. If you can, it’s probably wise to avoid planting in the same area, but not all gardeners have enough space to rotate their plantings. The practical solution may be to take a preventative approach. Keep your plants as healthy as possible and watch for future outbreaks.
When my two dahlias plants are like 3 inches tall, something is cutting them right at the base? Could it be a cutworm? There is no other vegetation nearby-in am area 4ft by 8ft with a brick wall around it and I do not see any slugs! I live in New Mexico-Area 7-
Hi – This must be infuriating. I have not heard of cutworms attacking dahlias, but it’s a good guess. You could try encircling the stems with a band of plastic from yogurt or cottage cheese containers. In a dry climate like yours, you may also be able to use cardboard towel or toilet paper tubes. Once the plants get older, their stems will toughen and the problem should fade away.
Hi Kath, I started my dahlia tubers early in nursery pots this April (I’m in coastal Maine, zone 5B) and they were doing great–plenty of growth and green leaves. I recently transplanted them from their nursery pots into my garden (incorporating a little bagged cow manure/compost and a low nitrogen organic granular fertilizer into the planting hole) and I’ve noticed that some of the plants aren’t looking too great anymore. A few of them have leaves that are starting to turn a lighter shade of greenish yellow, especially lower down on the plants, and a few of the dahlias look droopy. I wonder if this is transplant shock that they’ll grow out of or if this is a sign of another problem that I need to treat–like a nutrient deficiency? Maybe they need Epsom salts? It’s been a mostly cool, wet spring here and my soil is heavy and hasn’t gotten a chance to dry out. Any guidance would be so appreciated as I care a lot about my dahlias and have worked so hard to grow them. Thank you 🙂
Hi – sorry for the delay in responding. Hopefully your plants are looking better now that the weather is warmer. About 10% of my dahlias wound up being stunted and yellow. The others are robust and starting to bloom. I left the weaklings in pots in the greenhouse but even there they didn’t thrive. I tried fertilizing, watering, not watering. Not sure what the issue was. Dahlias are susceptible to a number of diseases and it seemed like these were just never going to snap out of it. This weekend they all went in the trash.
Thank you, Kath! Most of the dahlias look like they’re acclimating and putting on new growth. Some have buds. Some didn’t snap out of their initial funk so I ended up putting them in the trash too. All of my dahlias got the same loving attention and treatment, so I figured the problem lay with them and not me 🙂
I have three plants with black edges on the leaves at the top. It looks like they’ve been burned with fire ( they haven’t), otherwise the plants look healthy.
Any idea what could be causing this?
Sometimes grey mold can turn the leaf edges brown/black. Best to cut off and dispose of the affected leaves in case that’s the problem.
Hello Kath. I live in Portland, Oregon and the color of my Dahlia’s petals are washed out at the tips. Some of the leaves looked a bit chewed on (like from a slug which are common around here.) Any ideas of why the discoloration might be happening? Many thanks!
Hi Barb – It’s unlikely that the color shift in the petals is due to pest damage. Dahlias have more chromosomes than most plants and this makes them genetically unstable in terms of color and form. You can read more about it in this article: Can Dahlias Change Color? For controlling slugs and snails, I recommend using Sluggo pellets. Be sure to reapply weekly if the weather is wet.